RIMS configuration

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Postby aleguy » Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:28 pm

It was very hard to read the diagram. Partly because it was sideways. I didn't mean to ruffle your feathers, it just seems more complicated than it needs to be. I'm sure you have everything reasoned out. I just don't think the flow rate of a march pump is high enough, and it seems like you're going to need a whole lot of valves, which you are going to have to keep track of (and fit into the space you have. I'm definitely with you about not switching hoses around, and keeping them as short as possible. Not only is that stuff expensive, it kinks very easily. You might almost be better off hard-piping most of your plumbing and only using high-temp tubing where you need to move stuff around.
Again I didn't say it wouldn't work the way you have it laid out, it just seems overly complicated. Most of us like to drink while we brew, so we want to keep things as simple as possible and try to "drunk proof" our breweries. So don't let this particular ass hat get on your nerves. I was only trying to help.
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Postby yeastmeister » Wed Mar 24, 2010 5:56 am

I turned it sideways after I printed it out. :) I see no obvious problems with the plumbing. Thats basically how I use, or have used my pumps. The only problem I potentially see is priming. Those march pumps are NOT self priming, and the can be a real pain to get going if you don't have a way to either vent the air in the system, or lower the output and let gravity help.

But you've seen my system, I chose to move the outputs manually rather than use all those valves. And in doing that, I still have 5 valves. All mine however are either on or off, they don't change where the liquid is flowing.


I must admit, I'm interested in seeing the AutoSparge in action. And you have a very good looking stand.
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Postby Mob_Barley » Wed Mar 24, 2010 1:21 pm

I like the whole concept of the auto sparge ( http://www.blichmannengineering.com/Aut ... parge.html ) It's a simple idea and those are usually the best. It basically keeps the grain floating and puts sparge water below the surface of the wort to prevent HSA. The only problem everyone seems to have with it is that it isn't made of stainless steel.

I'd like to use the purge valves, but don't know where they should be installed. But, that's why I'm asking questions on the forum, to get some help and constructive comments on the design. I looked at a lot of commercial systems like Brew Magic and MoreBeer's BrewSculptures to get ideas. I really like the Brew Magic but the stand I have isn't set up to gravity feed the wort into the kettle. I already have the immersion chiller and like the idea of a whirlpool. So when you put it all together, this is the system I came up with. I may end up getting a Therminator like yours later on, but thought I'd try the IC first.

Sabco's chill wizard uses a march pump with the therminator and they don't have any problems with flow rates, so I figured I could do the same. It all boils down to designing a system that will make the best beer possible with the most control over the processes. [/url]
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Postby Imakewort » Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:41 pm

After following this thread since the beginning and seeing most of the members systems i will still take mine for ease of use and ability to clean as i use it. I looked at hard plumbing mine but the disadvantages far out weighed the positives, hard to clean, if you forget or unable to clean it you have a real mess, mine i take it apart as the i am done with a section and throw it in a bucket of water till i can clean it properly, when the tubing gets to dirty or worn from wear i throw it away and replace the tubing, I have built a lot of different variables to my system and i know this is one of the best and easiest to use and assemble and take care of in Lafayette.
The only thing i plan on changing is to go to Blichmann's auto sparge and drop my auto sparge system.
Still you are free to build yours any way you want at least listen to people that really built one not just dreaming of doing it.
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Postby aleguy » Wed Mar 24, 2010 3:20 pm

The purge valves are one of the best innovations in home brewing to come along in a long time IMHO. They should be installed on the top side of the stainless tee or cross, just down stream of the kettle ball valve. The hose barb, or other liquid tubing should come out the bottom of the tee or cross. If you are going to install your temperature probes in the wort flow stream, you will need crosses for your HLT and MLT. (If you really want to put a temperature probe in your boil kettle, you will need a cross there too.)
Budrock says the fittings are available locally, but I got mine from B3. (Crosses are in the wine section, go figure.)
When you are ready to start pumping, just open the kettle valve and slowly open the purge valve until liquid fills the entire tube from the kettle to the pump, then close it and you're set.
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Postby Mob_Barley » Wed Mar 24, 2010 6:26 pm

So you need one purge valve for each vessel you will be pumping out of... plumbed into a cross if you also plan on installing an inline thermocouple on the same line...

One more question, if you want to set up a manual ignition for the boil kettle, what will I need to get that will allow me to flip a switch on the control panel and have the boil kettle fire up? And I don't want one of those thingamabobs used on gas grills, I was thinking something along the lines of HVAC...

I'll be using low pressure so do I need a low pressure regulator before the burner, or is just one on the tank enough?
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Postby aleguy » Thu Mar 25, 2010 7:04 am

I can't say what you need for electronic ignition if you don't want to use the stuff they put on barbecue grills. Maybe you could adapt a spark plug?
One low-pressure regulator on the tank should be enough, I think. I use high-pressure, so it works for me. Low pressure regulators may not let enough gas through to run more than one burner at a time. I don't know. Yeasty has one for each burner on his stand. I do know the big 10" banjo burners work great on high-pressure. That's when they really kick some BTUs.
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Postby redtail28 » Thu Mar 25, 2010 8:37 am

[quote="Imakewort"]Still you are free to build yours any way you want at least listen to people that really built one not just dreaming of doing it.

Well dreaming is the next best thing like dreaming
of making beer that will win you a metal
We all hope to get there on day.
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Postby Mob_Barley » Mon Mar 29, 2010 8:33 am

Here are some pics of the brew stand so you can see what I have to work with.
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The heat shields are formed so the Banjo burners will bolt into the bottom (once I measure and cut the holes). The small bar below and in the back is the gas beam with three 1/2" couplings welded in front for the burners, and one in back for the propane "in". I"ve got a lot of work to do once I have some time off from work.
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Postby david79thomas » Mon Mar 29, 2010 4:01 pm

I'd like to talk about control boxes with you. I'm available next week if we can arrange something then?
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Postby yeastmeister » Mon Mar 29, 2010 4:25 pm

Awesome looking stand you got going there.
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Postby Mob_Barley » Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:21 pm

I just hope I can keep from screwing up the rest of it. I'll probably have to go back offshore next week, but hope to begin working on it soon.

The guy that built it did a really good job on not only the design but the metal work as well.
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Postby aleguy » Fri Apr 02, 2010 9:36 am

I sure is pretty. I'm not sure what the need is for both a dial and a button for each pump and burner, Oh well I guess you can explain all that at some point.
Since you're going off-shore I guess you won't be making the meeting on Tuesday. One less thing for me to lug around. (Adjustable mash return)
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Postby GuitarLord5000 » Fri Apr 02, 2010 3:51 pm

Are those dials and buttons? They look like switches and lights to me....
Anyway, it's a terrific looking stand, for sure. Well built. I could probably park my car on that thing. The control panel looks fantastic! Is it a prefab thing, or was is custom built for the stand?
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Postby Mob_Barley » Fri Apr 02, 2010 6:23 pm

The guy that built the stand ordered a stainless steel box and installed two Love controllers and all the switches and blue LED lights which will come on when the switch powers a burner or turns on a pump. Again, he did a really great job and I think he has worked about three years planning the design.
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