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Mash Tun design

PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 9:08 am
by redtail28
Mash Tun Design
On madden brew on my system has made
Me rethink my mash Tun design. Currently it
Very basic, a converted keg, SS braided hose about 18 inches long.
I’m using a pump to recirculate my mash
But low flow from grain compacting was a problem.
Not to mention very low efficiency from channeling.
How do you have your mash Tun set up?

PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 12:04 pm
by aleguy
I currently use a grain bag in a brew kettle for mashing. I then remove the bag and pour 170 degree water slowly over the grains. I appear to be getting about 85% efficiency from this. However, I only mash six pounds at a time and use DME for the bulk of my fermentables.
I have built a slotted-pipe manifold for a 48-quart picnic cooler using copper pipe which I sawed 0.18" slots every half-inch or so. the pipes are 4" apart and 2" from the walls of the cooler. I based the design on information from BYO article on mash tun efficiency.
I found a very narrow min-backsaw at Hobby Lobby in the X-acto type tools. After Igor moved to using 40-mesh stainless over his false bottom, I felt that a regular hacksaw blade made a slot that was too wide. I measured the 40-mesh opening at 0.17".
I'd post a photo, but I don't own a camera.
I haven't used the new mash tun yet because I still need some more equipment to go all-grain, and some fittings to go through the cooler wall. As soon as Gulf Brew is over, I plan to start working on my grain system again.

PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 2:42 pm
by redtail28
You should have good efficacy with that design. I believe that grain crush
And mash Tun manifold both have effects on efficiency.
Great efficiency I think comes from good manifold
Shape/design for your mash vessel more so than your
Grain crush.
John Palmers New “How to Brewâ€￾ book has a good chapter on this

PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 7:29 pm
by aleguy
That book is peripherally on my list, but I think the brewer's companion (Not Papazian's homebrewer's companion)is higher on the priority scale. unfortunately it is not currently available from AHA and I frankly haven't gotten around to searching the out-of-print sources I usually use fortruly esoteric books. (You REALLY don't want to know.)

PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 8:46 am
by yeastmeister
Bascially, a stainless false bottom from morebeer. That takes the place of your stainless braid. Basically, the same otherwise. The keys for a recirculating mash are the mash density, and flow. Keep your mash on the thin side, and restrict the output of the pump, and you shouldn't have any problems. If it sticks, break it up again, and retry with a lower flow rate. Always start off closed, then slowly open up the flow rate.

PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 8:56 am
by redtail28
Do you also use the 40 mesh ss screen like igor and red?
And does the false bottom sit above or below your valve?