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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 7:49 pm
by triple-oh_six
Well, let's just say these things are DC, I haven't recieved them yet but the more I investigate the more I am disappointed.
Does this mean that they will not work?
I don't know a "whole" lot about electricity I know that the power I'll be using is AC.
Did I just waste my $?
Any thoughts? :(

PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 8:11 pm
by triple-oh_six
Got 'em they are DC.........

........anyone?
Bueller.......?
...................Anyone?

PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 10:14 am
by aleguy
Your cell phone is DC too, but you still plug it into the wall. all you need is the appropriate rectifier. You need to match voltage and amps to your valves. Keep in mid that most DC appliances have a range of voltages that they will work with. i.e. a 14 volt home phone works fine with 12 volt electricity.
I can't imagine the valves require too much energy. you could probably just hook them up to a car battery charger (with appropriate fuses.)

PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 10:27 am
by Imakewort
what does the data plate say on the valve, watts, amps, voltage let me know and I can give you some ideas

PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 7:10 pm
by yeastmeister
Urk...I hate it when I'm right. oh well, as much as I hate to say it, the best thing to do would be to complain and return them. Either the picture was photoshopped, or somehow, something got completely turned around at the factory. Either way, they were advertised as a/c, and arrived d/c.

d/c is going to add another layer of complexity, and another point of failure for you. Depending on how you paid for them, ebay has lots of options where they protect the buyer.

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:00 am
by aleguy
My question is this: Can you get an AC controller with DC outputs?
It seems to me, the controller is likely to run on internal DC power. Nearly all electronics do. Since the controller is running DC internally it should be a simple matter to remove an internal inverter and run the valves directly from the controller's DC output.

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:23 am
by yeastmeister
The problem is that almost all electronics run at 5v dc, very low amps. The valves run at 12v dc, at a couple of amps. If you added an external 12v regulator to the mix, you can probably use the relays of the device to switch the 12v on and off. But as I stated earlier, it adds a level of complexity, and another point of failure to a system.

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:27 pm
by triple-oh_six
I'm going to contact this guy and try to get my $ back.

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 1:46 pm
by aleguy
That sounds like a good idea. If he doesn't like it you can go through paypal. They have some pretty stringent guidelines about these things.

PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 3:15 pm
by triple-oh_six
Yeah, the guy won't take them back.
He says that I had enough info with the pics to figure out that they were DC.
Which is true, I did figure that out before I recieved it, too bad it was after I bid.
Oh well, such is life. :roll:

PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:36 am
by yeastmeister
I wouldn't take that. File a grievance with ebay and paypal. The pictures on the website stated A/C in print on the box, and on the valve dataplate. If the valves still say A/C on them, but they are D/C valves, then someone switched things around. Thats basically fraud, and ebay takes it seriously. Stand up and push back. Push hard.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 12:55 pm
by aleguy
I have to agree. If the valves were misrepresented in print, the photos are irrelevant. you need to go for blood on this one. the dollars spent are not important. you need to come down on this guy like a ton of bricks.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 4:56 pm
by triple-oh_six
Well, I hate to prove my ignorance, but if you look at the product # in the pics. :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... =p3907.m29

they match up with the info from Asco:

http://www.ascovalve.com/Common/PDFFile ... 8030R1.pdf

Look under specifications at #8030A017

That clearly shows that this valve is DC

both valves and boxes have :

Voltz HZ 120/60, 110/50,.........does that specify AC?
As I said in a previous post, I don't know a whole lot about electricity, just enough to do some basic handyman work.

If I'm missing something please tell me, but I don't want to file a false claim for my stupidity,
I mean, I do,..... but that would be un-ethical.

Thanks,
triple_oh-six

PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 4:58 pm
by triple-oh_six
BTW, anybody wanna buy some asco valves, never been used :wink:

PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 11:24 am
by yeastmeister
Absolutely. Voltz HZ 120/60, 110/50 = 120 Volts AC at 60 hertz, or 110 Volts AC at 50 hertz. AC is alternating current. Hertz is the rate that the direction of that current reverses cyclically,. The fact that it gives a hertz rating means that its AC. DC doesn't alternate, so it wouldn't show a hertz rating.

You have all the proof you need on ebay servers right now in those links.

The seller even retyped the information saying that they are A/C.

I'd escalate it to ebay and paypal NOW. Before the images fall off the server.